We arrived in Lisbon just after sunrise, the city still stretching into wakefulness. The descent offered a glimpse of terracotta rooftops and the Tagus shimmering like a silver thread. Lisbon is a city that breathes through its hills. Seven of them cradle neighborhoods like Alfama, Bairro Alto, and Chiado, each with its own rhythm and scent. The Tagus River, wide and patient, flows like a memory of maritime glory. With a population just over half a million, Lisbon feels both intimate and infinite—its streets a palimpsest of Moorish arches, Gothic spires, and modern murals. It’s a city that doesn’t rush to impress; it invites you to linger and listen.
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Our loft at Raw Culture Arts & Lofts was more than a room—it was a retreat. High ceilings, clean lines, and thoughtful design gave us space to breathe. The kids delighted in their own beds, tucked beneath our beds that felt like forts of comfort. The staff greeted us with warmth and precision, offering local tips and a quiet confidence that made us feel instantly at home. The hotel’s maximalist aesthetic was softened by curated art and natural light, a perfect canvas for the days ahead.
Located near Praça Luís de Camões, the hotel was steps from the pulse of Chiado and the elegance of Lisbon’s shopping district. Praça Luís de Camões is situated in the historic Chiado district, it serves as a central point connecting the Chiado and Bairro Alto neighborhoods.
At its heart stands a monumental bronze statue of Luís de Camões, a renowned 16th-century Portuguese poet known for his epic poem “Os Lusíadas”. The square is a vibrant meeting point and features traditional Portuguese cobblestone patterns, adding to its historical and cultural appeal. Each morning began with an aromatic cup of cappuccino and a table spread full of freshly prepared food and drinks. Perfect jolt before we bolted through the door.
Our first stop, because it was steps away from our hotel was the Livraria Bertrand, the world’s oldest continuously operating bookstore. Originally founded in 1732 by Pedro Faure, the bookstore was destroyed in the 1755 Lisbon earthquake but reopened in its current location shortly after. It is known for its unique atmosphere with sloping archways connecting various rooms and a faint scent of old wood and vanilla. Livraria Bertrand has long been a hub for poets, philosophers, writers, and artists, hosting numerous literary figures throughout its history. Visitors often describe the experience of wandering through its rooms as a “religious experience” for book lovers, with a quiet and reverent ambiance.
Our next stop, Castelo de São Jorge crowns Lisbon’s oldest quarter like a weathered crown. Originally built by Muslims in the 11th century to defend the city, it was later reclaimed by the first King of Portugal, D. Afonso Henriques, in 1147. It served as a royal palace for the Portuguese monarchy until the 16th century before becoming a military installation.
Despite suffering damage during the 1755 earthquake, the castle has since been restored and remains a prominent landmark. It is located in the Santa Maria Maior parish, on the highest hill in Lisbon. We entered through a stone archway and followed the ramparts, where peacocks strutted through olive groves and children chased shadows. This medieval castle, with over a thousand years of history, offers panoramic views of Lisbon — red roofs cascading toward the river, the 25 de Abril Bridge stretching like a steel sigh.
Inside, the archaeological site revealed Roman foundations and Islamic walls, layered like sedimentary memory. The inner courtyard, shaded by cork oaks, felt timeless. I paused beside a cistern, imagining the lives once sustained by its water. Castelo de São Jorge is not just a fortress with a past it is also alive today, a place of gathering, strolling, wandering, viewing and in the evenings on weekends, reveling. As we were exiting, the DJ was getting setup, and the party was just beginning.
Tuk tuks have become a popular and touristy way to explore Lisbon, especially in the hilly neighborhoods where traditional transport can be tricky. These small, motorized vehicles zip through narrow streets and offer guided tours with local commentary. While the rides can be quite expensive compared to public transport, they’re a fun and efficient way to see the city’s highlights—perfect for first-time visitors or those short on time.
That evening, we dined at The Oven, a Nepali restaurant tucked into Cais do Sodré. The scent of cumin and cardamom greeted us like an embrace. We shared plates of paneer, spiced dal, and sautéed greens, each bite a fusion of Himalayan soul and Iberian hospitality. The staff was attentive, the ambiance intimate. It was a meal that nourished more than hunger—it felt like home. Definitely a well earned spot in the Michelin Guide.
Day 2
In Belém, the Jerónimos Monastery rises like a cathedral carved by waves. Definitely try to get out there early, as the lines form fast for this monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, designated in 1983. Buying the tickets beforehand is a good idea too.
Built in the early 16th century, under the reign of King Manuel I and is dedicated to the Order of Saint Jerome, it is the pinnacle of Manueline architecture—a style unique to Portugal, blending Gothic intricacy with maritime motifs. The cloisters are a marvel: ribbed vaults that seem to float, columns entwined with ropes, coral, and sea monsters. Each arch whispers of voyages and prayers.
Attached to the monastery is the Church of Santa Maria, where Vasco da Gama rests beneath a sculpted tomb. His sarcophagus, adorned with navigational instruments and celestial symbols, anchors the space in both reverence and ambition.
Vasco da Gama stands as one of the most pivotal figures in the Age of Exploration—a navigator whose daring voyage in 1497 forever altered the course of global trade and empire. Born around 1460 in the coastal town of Sines, Portugal, da Gama was the son of a minor nobleman and grew up steeped in maritime tradition. His greatest achievement came in 1498, when he became the first European to reach India by sea, successfully navigating around Africa’s Cape of Good Hope and landing at Calicut on the Malabar Coast. This direct sea route bypassed the overland Silk Road and the costly middlemen of Arab and Venetian trade, giving Portugal unprecedented access to the lucrative spice markets of Asia. Da Gama’s return to Lisbon in 1499 was met with immense celebration. King Manuel I, who had commissioned the voyage, welcomed him with honors and later founded the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém to commemorate the success. Da Gama would go on to lead two more expeditions to India, including his final voyage in 1524, when he was appointed Viceroy of Portuguese India.
He died later that year in Cochin, but his legacy endured. His sea route not only reshaped global commerce but also laid the foundation for Portugal’s colonial empire across Africa and Asia. Today, his name graces bridges, museums, and epic poems—most notably Luís de Camões’ Os Lusíadas, which immortalizes da Gama as a symbol of Portuguese ambition and resilience. The monastery became a spiritual and architectural tribute to Portugal’s maritime glory, and da Gama himself was laid to rest within its adjoining Church of Santa Maria. His present-day tomb, crafted in 1894, reflects the romantic nationalism of the 19th century. Sculptors Vitor Bastos and Costa Mota adorned it with motifs drawn from the Manueline style—ropes, botanical flourishes, and heraldic emblems evoking the age of Portuguese discoveries.
Monument of the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos) celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries, honoring figures pivotal to Portugal’s maritime exploration. Located on the northern bank of the Tagus River estuary in the civil parish of Santa Maria de Belém, it stands where ships departed to explore and trade with India and the Orient.
The monument, shaped like a stylized caravel, features 33 statues of notable figures from the era, including navigators, cartographers, and artists, with Henry the Navigator leading the procession. Visitors can ascend to the top for panoramic views of the Tagus River, the Belem neighborhood, and a large marble mosaic compass rose with a world map at the monument’s base.
The Tagus River, or Rio Tejo in Portuguese, is the longest river on the Iberian Peninsula, stretching over 1,007 kilometers (626 miles) from its source in eastern Spain to its mouth at Lisbon, where it meets the Atlantic Ocean2. For over 3,000 years, it has shaped Lisbon’s destiny—first as a harbor for Phoenician traders, later as the launchpad for Portugal’s Age of Discovery. Its wide estuary forms one of Europe’s finest natural harbors, allowing Lisbon to flourish as a maritime capital. The river’s basin spans more than 80,000 square kilometers, irrigating fertile lands and supporting diverse ecosystems. Along its banks, civilizations have risen and fallen—Romans, Moors, and Christians all left their mark in stone and story. Today, the Tagus is both a muse and a mirror: its surface reflects the city’s terracotta rooftops and the sweeping arches of the Vasco da Gama Bridge, once the longest in Europe.
As you walk towards the mouth of the river, The Belém Tower, or Torre de Belém, stands as one of Lisbon’s most iconic monuments—a limestone sentinel at the edge of the Tagus River, built between 1514 and 1520 during the height of Portugal’s maritime golden age.
Originally conceived as a defensive bastion to guard the entrance to Lisbon’s harbor, it also served as a ceremonial gateway for explorers departing toward distant shores. Designed by architect Francisco de Arruda, the tower is a masterpiece of Manueline architecture, adorned with maritime motifs like twisted ropes, armillary spheres, and crosses of the Order of Christ—symbols that echo Portugal’s seafaring legacy. Over the centuries, the tower has served many roles: fortress, customs post, lighthouse, and even a prison. Its strategic location and ornate design made it a symbol of Portugal’s imperial ambition and artistic flourish. In 1983, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site alongside the nearby Jerónimos Monastery, cementing its status as a cultural treasure. As of 2025, the Belém Tower is temporarily closed for restoration and conservation work under Portugal’s Recovery and Resilience Plan. The project, expected to last about a year, aims to preserve the structure’s integrity while ensuring safety for future visitors. Though currently shrouded in scaffolding, the tower’s silhouette still commands the riverfront, reminding passersby of the voyages that once began at its feet.
After a quick bite to eat by the riverside, we headed to The National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo), a dazzling tribute to Portugal’s centuries-old love affair with ceramic art. Housed in the 16th-century Madre de Deus Convent, founded by Queen Leonor in 1509, the museum showcases the evolution of azulejos—the iconic glazed tiles—from their Moorish geometric origins to elaborate Baroque masterpieces and contemporary interpretations.
Highlights include the monumental “Grande Panorama de Lisboa”, a 75-foot-long tile panel depicting the city before the devastating 1755 earthquake, and the exquisite altarpiece of Our Lady of Life from 1580, composed of nearly 1,500 tiles. The convent’s richly gilded church, cloisters, and sacristy add layers of architectural splendor, making the museum not just a gallery but a living canvas of Portuguese history and artistry.
From there, the perfect place to people watch is the Praça do Comércio, also known as Commerce Square or Terreiro do Paço, Lisbon’s most important and one of Europe’s largest squares.
It was once the site of the Royal Ribeira Palace before the devastating 1755 Lisbon earthquake. The square was reconstructed under the direction of the Marquis of Pombal in the late 18th century as part of the city’s revitalization efforts. Arco da Rua Augusta, a triumphal arch leads into the Praça do Comércio. Constructed after the devastating 1755 earthquake, it commemorates the city’s reconstruction and resilience. The arch features sculptures by Célestin Anatole Calmels and Vitor Bastos, depicting allegorical figures and famous Portuguese figures like Vasco da Gama.
Visitors can ascend the arch via an elevator to an observation deck for 360-degree views of Lisbon, including the Praça do Comércio, Baixa district, and the Tagus River. It serves as a gateway to Rua Augusta, a vibrant pedestrian street filled with shops, cafes, and street performers, and stands at the northern end of the grand Praça do Comércio.
Day 3 – Day Trip to Quelez, Sintra and Cape Roca
Often bypassed en route to Sintra, the Palácio Nacional de Queluz is a rococo masterpiece. The Queluz National Palace, often referred to as the “Portuguese Versailles”, is a magnificent 18th-century royal residence located in Queluz, Portugal. The palace began as a modest country house in 1747. It was commissioned by Dom Pedro III, who later became King Consort to Queen Maria I.
The palace transformed into one of Europe’s last great Rococo buildings, reflecting the opulent style of the era. It served as a summer retreat and later the official residence of the Portuguese royal family. The palace witnessed significant historical events. These included the confinement of Queen Maria I due to mental illness and the royal family’s departure for Brazil during the French invasion. After the monarchy fell in 1910, the Queluz Palace was declared a National Monument. It underwent extensive restoration after a fire in 1934. The palace showcases a blend of Baroque and Rococo architectural styles. It boasts lavish interiors with ornate decorations.
These include gilded woodcarvings, mirrors, paintings, and chandeliers. Key rooms to explore include the Throne Room, Ambassador Hall, Music Room, and the Don Quixote Room. Outside, the gardens unfold in symmetry—fountains, mythological statues, and azulejo-lined canals. Few tourists wandered its paths, which made the experience feel intimate, almost secret. Queluz is Portugal’s Versailles, but with a quieter soul.
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Sintra is a dream carved into forested hills. The National Palace of Sintra, with its twin chimneys and Moorish tiles, anchors the town in elegance. It is the best-preserved medieval royal palace in Portugal and was a residence of the Portuguese royal family until 1910.The palace is notable for its two distinctive conical chimneys, which are a prominent feature of the Sintra skyline.
Its architecture is a blend of Gothic, Mudejar, and Renaissance styles, reflecting its long history and various periods of construction and renovation. The National Palace of Sintra is part of the Cultural Landscape of Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognized in 1995. Inside, rooms unfold like chapters: the Swan Room with its painted ceiling, the Magpie Room adorned with birds and legend, and the Arab Room echoing with Islamic geometry.
Castelo dos Mouros, also known as the Castle of the Moors was built by the Moors around the 8th century to protect the surrounding agricultural territory and population. Perched on a hilltop in the Sintra Mountains, it offers panoramic views of the town of Sintra, the Pena Palace, and the Atlantic Ocean. The castle was conquered by King Afonso Henriques in 1147 and later saw restoration efforts initiated by King Ferdinand II in the 19th century. Today, the Castelo dos Mouros is a National Monument and part of the Sintra Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Due to extreme heat and fire warnings, some other sites in Sintra were closed—a sobering reminder of nature’s power. Still, the palace offered refuge in its cool stone and quiet grandeur. When in Sintra be sure to try the Queijada de Sintra at Casa Piriquita, a delicious cheese pastry unique to the Portuguese culture.
We drove to Cabo da Roca, where Land Ends and the Atlantic begins, and the westernmost point of continental Europe. The cliffs rise like cathedral spires, carved by wind and time. Below, the Atlantic roars—endless, indifferent, sublime. I stood at the edge, the wind tugging at my jacket, and felt the vastness of the ocean press against my chest. The monument at Cabo da Roca, features a cross and a plaque with a quote from the Portuguese poet Luís de Camões, describing Cabo da Roca as “where the land ends and the sea begins”. This rugged headland is situated within the Sintra-Cascais National Park. A lighthouse, built in 1772, stands on the cliffs, which rise over 100 meters above the Atlantic Ocean. The area is known for its panoramic views, strong winds, and challenging coastal trails.
Lunch at Moinho Dom Quixote, a windmill-turned-restaurant, was a misstep. Two hours lost to indifferent service and forgotten orders. The view couldn’t redeem the experience, and we left with hunger and frustration. Avoid at all costs. But Cabo da Roca itself—wild, windswept, and eternal—was worth every moment.
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Back in Lisbon, we explored Baixa-Chiado, where history and nightlife entwine. Pink Street—officially known as Rua Nova do Carvalho—is one of Lisbon’s most vibrant and photogenic destinations, especially after dark. Once part of the city’s red-light district, this narrow lane in Cais do Sodré was transformed in 2011 through an urban renewal project that painted its pavement a bold pink and reimagined it as a hub of nightlife and creativity.
Today, it’s lined with eclectic bars, stylish clubs, and quirky restaurants. The street also doubles as an open-air gallery, with murals and street art adorning its façades. By day, it’s a colorful curiosity; by night, it pulses with music, laughter, and the energy of locals and travelers alike. Dinner was at Time Out Market—a culinary carnival where stalls offered everything from vegan petiscos to artisanal gelato. Our teenager had connected with one of her friends who also happened to be in Lisbon and we ended up grabbing drinks and dinner at Time Out, a perfect ending to the day with food and friends.
Day 4
After breakfast, we headed to Lisbon’s most iconic flea market, known as Feira da Ladra—literally “Thieves’ Market”— a vibrant tapestry of history, curiosity, and local charm. Held every Tuesday and Saturday in the Alfama district near the Pantheon and Mercado de Santa Clara, it dates back to the 13th century and has evolved from its colorful origins into a beloved destination for antique hunters and casual wanderers alike. Portugal is known for its leather products and the market didn’t disappoint for a shopaholic like me. A leather boat shoes, a pair of leather sandals, and with similar buys for the girls, the trip was well worth it.
Lisbon’s trams are more than transportation—they’re kinetic poetry etched in brass and wood. The iconic yellow Remodelado trams, some dating back to the 1930s, rattle through the city’s steep, cobbled streets like time machines.
Photographing them became a quiet obsession: catching one cresting a hill in Alfama with beautiful architectural buildings framing them, or framed against the azulejo-clad facades of Graça, where every tile told a story. I waited for the clouds and crowds to clear near the Sé Cathedral, where the tram curved like a brushstroke beneath Gothic arches. At intersections, my favorite, the turns were artistic. At Gloria – S. Pedro Alcantara Station, the trams waited to ride down the hill. Yellow or red, each shot felt like a collaboration—with the city, the tram, and the moment. Lisbon doesn’t pose—it moves, and if you’re patient, it reveals its soul one frame at a time.
Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest and most soulful district, a labyrinth of steep cobbled alleys that tumble down from the heights of Castelo de São Jorge to the shimmering banks of the Tagus River. Once home to fishermen, sailors, and the city’s working class, Alfama has preserved its gritty charm and intimate character despite waves of gentrification. The neighborhood pulses with history:
Moorish foundations, Roman traces, and medieval churches nestle beside pastel-colored homes draped in laundry and adorned with azulejos. Fado music drifts from tucked-away taverns, and the scent of grilled sardines fills the air during summer festivals. Alfama isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a place to wander, to listen, and to feel Lisbon’s beating heart echo through every stone and song.
Find time for Pastéis de Nata, which are traditional Portuguese custard tarts. These pastries feature a flaky, buttery crust and a creamy egg-based filling, often caramelized on top. Pastéis de Nata originated in the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon, created by monks before the 18th century. You can find them in Portuguese bakeries and cafes globally, and recipes are also available for making them at home.
Our next stop was Lisbon Cathedral, or Sé de Lisboa, the city’s oldest and most enduring church, standing proudly in the Alfama district since its founding in 1147. Built on the site of a former mosque after the Christian reconquest, the cathedral has weathered centuries of earthquakes, wars, and renovations, resulting in a striking blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque architectural styles.
Its fortress-like façade, twin bell towers, and rose window give it a commanding presence, while inside, visitors can find the baptismal font of St. Anthony, a 13th-century Gothic cloister with archaeological excavations, and a treasury filled with illuminated manuscripts and jeweled relics. The cathedral also houses the tomb of King Afonso IV, and offers panoramic views of downtown Lisbon from its upper galleries.
Close to the cathedral in Alfama, is Miradouro de Santa Luzia one of Lisbon’s most romantic and iconic viewpoints, perched on a terraced garden in the heart of Alfama. Overlooking a cascade of terracotta rooftops and the shimmering Tagus River, it offers postcard-perfect panoramas of the city’s oldest district. The space is adorned with blue-and-white azulejo panels depicting scenes from Lisbon’s past—including the 1755 earthquake and the Crusaders’ siege of the castle—and framed by bougainvillea-draped pergolas that add bursts of magenta to the scene.
From here, you can spot the domes of the National Pantheon, the Church of São Miguel, and the Church of Santo Estêvão, all nestled within Alfama’s maze-like streets. Musicians often serenade visitors, while artists sketch the view, making it a sensory haven for travelers and locals alike.
After dinner, there is another lookout or Miradouro that is worth going to. Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara is one of Lisbon’s most breathtaking viewpoints, offering a sweeping panorama that stretches from the castle-topped hills of Alfama to the shimmering Tagus River. Nestled in the Bairro Alto district, this dual-level garden terrace is adorned with Baroque fountains, busts of mythological figures, and a tile map that helps visitors identify the landmarks below. From here, you can spot Castelo de São Jorge, the Avenida da Liberdade, and the rooftops of Baixa and Mouraria, all bathed in golden light at sunset.
The viewpoint is also the upper stop of the historic Elevador da Glória, a funicular that climbs the steep hill from downtown Lisbon. Two weeks after our visit, the funicular had a tragic accident with 15 dead and many injured. Our hearts are with the families of the devastated, the locals and the tourists and we know the city that embraced us will find a way to recover and get back.
As our time in Lisbon came to a close, the city felt quieter, more reflective. We didn’t know of the tragedy that was going to strike the historic Elevador da Glória funicular, claiming lives and shaking the heart of this vibrant capital but it’s a sobering reminder that even places steeped in beauty and history are not untouched by sorrow. Yet Lisbon, with its resilience forged over centuries—from earthquakes to revolutions—continues to hold space for both joy and grief. This city, with its tiled facades and golden light, invites us not only to admire but to feel deeply. And in that, Lisbon will remain unforgettable.
Karthik Raja 